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In this project, I did not have the benefit of a donor Turbo van, so it was essential to get the Factory Service Manual for a 1990 (SBEC) Minivan. I already had the 1993 Minivan FSM. The wiring diagrams for both the target (1993) and donor (1990) cars are absolutely essential, DON'T attempt a conversion without them. Next, a complete under-hood donor harness from a 1990 - 1991 Turbo I vehicle was sought and obtained. It really doesn't matter if it comes from a Minivan, but it must be SBEC (90-up) vintage, as the all important injector harness is wired sequentially (not batch, as 89-and-older turbo's were). You basically want the harness for the seven unique, turbo-specific sub-harness connectors listed here. The vehicle harness was then completely removed and laid out against the donor harness for visual comparison against the FSM wiring diagrams. In this conversion, it makes more sense to modify the target vehicle's existing harness (there's no going back to TBI!), rather than to try and use and modify the 1990 Turbo donor harness. (It's possible to make the changes with the harness left in the vehicle, but I like doing the changes with the harness on a bench in the shop. On the bench, all the under-hood crud and dirt can be completely removed, all split-loom, insulation tape and connectors can be inspected, cleaned and de-oxidized. To avoid potentially unreliable splicing, Standard Motor Products, Inc's., P/N CG52 terminals were used for inserting the seven new turbo-specific circuits into the vehicle's existing 60-way SBEC vehicle harness plug. To Prevent Electrical Wiring/Connector Problems follow this procedure: Use a good spray cleaner like DeoxIT D5 Connector & Contact Treatment. This breaks up the oxides and contamination. This is only a cleaner and the cleaning improves conductivity. Avoid Silicone-based cleaners. Use a Di-electric grease only to seal or lubricate non-conductive connector isulation surfaces. Use an electrical contact enhancer like Stabilant 22 or Stabilant 22A. Initially it is non-conductive and then switches to a conductor in the presence of electricity. This switching ability is set so that the material will remain non-conductive between adjacent contacts in a multiple connector, and yet enhance the conductivity of each connector. It's as if it had its own brain, and it provides a tenfold to a hundredfold increase in connector reliability.
Here are some suggested uses for Stabilant 22:
However, one word of caution is needed. Do not use a contact enhancer such as Stabilant 22 on a switch for an inductive load. In other words if the switch sparks when disconnection occurs do not use the stabilant as it would increase the sparking. (However it is O.K. to use it on the wiring harness connections for these switches and circuits.)
Finally, the harness can more easily be electrically verified and tested before placing it back in the vehicle. If you've never done wiring work before, it's best to seek out a harness maker, preferably one that has experience with automotive electrical harness repair or construction. You'll need to make a very detailed change plan or drawing (also handy for future troubleshooting), again referring to your FSM's electrical diagrams and connector tables. But by using a harness maker, you'll get back a harness that's better than the one that came new in your car, but is now tailored-made to your vehicle's unique requirements. In my case, I used Specialized Manufacturing, of Draper, Utah. Bob Simons and his crew (thanks Taggert!) did a great job!
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